> Can anyone reccomend a place to get an Omega E-99 timer repaired at a resonable
> price? It works, but time is off, not accurate. Thanks, Dave
That timer was discontinued from production in 1978 or so! Money wise, it
is may be better to buy another timer, plenty of timers being auctioned at
eBay right now, including a Omega CT-20 described as "new". A CT-20 has the
same controls than a E-99 (no learning curve :-) The only thing is that a
CT-20 is 300 watts and your E-99 a 600 watts.
Ask Harry http://www.classic-enlargers.com/ in his "help forum", he may know
were you can get it repaired.
Guillermo
Jorge Omar - 09 Mar 2004 16:20 GMT
Case you decide to buy the CT-20 and need more power, an external
relay/contactor will fill the bill nicelly.
Jorge
> That timer was discontinued from production in 1978 or so! Money
> wise, it is may be better to buy another timer, plenty of timers being
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Guillermo
I've got the same timer. The thing occasionally gets stuck on me, and
maybe mine will soon operate like yours...
Eventually I'll take it apart, but anyone know the nature of this timer?
Maybe the mechanical relay can be replaced?
> Can anyone reccomend a place to get an Omega E-99 timer repaired at a resonable
> price? It works, but time is off, not accurate. Thanks, Dave
Nicholas O. Lindan - 09 Mar 2004 18:16 GMT
Folks wrote:
> The [Omega E-99 timer] occasionally gets stuck on me ...
> Eventually I'll take it apart, but anyone know the nature of this timer?
> Maybe the mechanical relay can be replaced?
> Can anyone recommend a place to get an Omega E-99 timer repaired at a reasonable
> price? It works, but time is off, not accurate. Thanks, Dave
Sure: http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm
You would need a new front panel, or do some work on the present front.
A front panel can be made laminating several layers of chipboard (the board
at the back of a legal pad) with contact cement to around 3/16" thick,
this will plenty strong enough. Paint the panel with enamel to water
proof it. Cut holes for the display and switches with a drill or mat knife.
Glue on the supplied front panel applique and there you go.
The hard part: Square holes for AC sockets, switch, footswitch ...
is already done for you.
Email if interested.

Signature
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio nolindan@ix.netcom.com
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Jorge Omar - 10 Mar 2004 00:31 GMT
Nicholas
Nice kit!
Jorge
> Sure: http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm
f/256 - 09 Mar 2004 18:21 GMT
> I've got the same timer. The thing occasionally gets stuck on me, and
> maybe mine will soon operate like yours...
>
> Eventually I'll take it apart, but anyone know the nature of this timer?
> Maybe the mechanical relay can be replaced?
If the timer's electronics of an E99 is anything like the ones of a
Chromegatrol, the PCB has 3 ICs and several discreet elements. The relay is
a 1" or so square by 3/8" thick, seems to be a sealed unit, not that you
couldn't try to expose the contacts and clean/burnish them. That relay in
my Chromegatrol has 5 pins, 2 activate the relay and the other 3: common,
normally closed (safelight) and normally open (power to light source), it
should be easy to find a OEM replacement for that relay, even if you have to
mount it not on the PCB itself. My relay gets stuck sometimes, since the
Cromegatrol is not just a timer but also a stabilized power supply/voltage
reductor, I have wired my IC Timer together with the Chromegatrol, so I use
the timing functions of the IC and the power stabilizing and voltage
reductions of the Chromegatrol.
Guillermo