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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / March 2004

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Problem with pushed Neopans

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Marie-Aude - 10 Mar 2004 15:01 GMT
Hi,

I hope you can help me.
I pushed a Neopan 1600 up to 4800 (yeah, I know, could not do anything
else), and find nothing for that on Fuji documentation.
On Digital Truth, I find

Ilfotec DD, 8 minutes at 24? (6400 ISO)
Xtol 1+1 , +/- 9 minutes at 20?
Xtol 1+2, +/- 12 minutes at 20?
Xtol 1+3, +/- 15,5 minutes at 20?

What should I choose to keep the maximum definition.

Second problem : I had to push some Accros 100 up to 400 ISO, and there I
find absolutely no data (and yeah, I know, could not do anything else)

Do you have any idea, recommendation ?

On top of that, I had only one film of each, so no test, just process and
pray...

Thanks for your help

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Marie-Aude

www.oasisdemezgarne.com

Mike King - 10 Mar 2004 18:34 GMT
Reading between the lines I assume that these are pretty important pictures.
What I would do first is buy another roll of each film to shoot a test.
Duplicate the original shot as closely as possible, lighting, contrast, etc.
Shoot a whole roll of a representative exposure on each film and then
process clip tests until you find a suitable time.  I'd use a high energy
developer like Ilford Microphen and try double their "normal"  time.
Unfortunately all the 3200, 1600 and 1000 ISO films' ISO ratings are rather
over-inflated to begin with.  Example:  TMax 3200 is really closer to EI
1000.

Extended development will get you close but expect higher than normal fog
levels as well.

I wish you luck.

--
darkroommike

----------
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> www.oasisdemezgarne.com
Marie-Aude - 10 Mar 2004 22:48 GMT
> Reading between the lines I assume that these are pretty important pictures.

:-) You're right.

> What I would do first is buy another roll of each film to shoot a test.

I'll do this week end.

> I'd use a high energy
> developer like Ilford Microphen and try double their "normal"  time.
> Unfortunately all the 3200, 1600 and 1000 ISO films' ISO ratings are rather
> over-inflated to begin with.  Example:  TMax 3200 is really closer to EI
> 1000.

Thanks for the tip.

> I wish you luck.

:-) I'll announce the results

Signature

Marie-Aude

Jan T - 13 Mar 2004 10:12 GMT
Be shure to have not only more fog (not impossible to overcome, just longer
exposure times for the print), but significant loss of shadow detail and
very contrasty and grainy negatives too.
In fact: if you find shadow detail of any importance, pushing is a bit of a
misunderstanding; the central issue of elongating dev. time is that it
expands film contrast, with a little speed increase as a 'side effect'.

Anyway, Marie-Aude, I would suggest the same as previous poster does: test
with duplicate but unimportant circumstances, cross your fingers and...
good luck!
Let us know how it worked for you!
Jan

> Reading between the lines I assume that these are pretty important pictures.
> What I would do first is buy another roll of each film to shoot a test.
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
> >
> > www.oasisdemezgarne.com
Michael Scarpitti - 11 Mar 2004 16:02 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> Thanks for your help

You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and developer.
Marie-Aude - 11 Mar 2004 16:05 GMT
> You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and developer.

ya, na... well that was that or no photo at all. :-)
Maybe at the end it will be no photo at all anyway, I prefer to try
Signature

Marie-Aude

www.oasisdemezgarne.com

Michael Scarpitti - 13 Mar 2004 23:45 GMT
> > You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and
> developer.
>
> ya, na... well that was that or no photo at all. :-)
> Maybe at the end it will be no photo at all anyway, I prefer to try

Shadows hardly gain at all, just the heavier densities. It is a waste of time.
Silvio Manuel - 11 Mar 2004 17:48 GMT

> You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and developer.

Like your post, a waste. Define push!!! From null exposure? From a
highlight value ? From a midtone metering ?  

Pushing works if one does it correctly.
Mike King - 12 Mar 2004 18:28 GMT
Technically correct but no help at all.  This is a salvage job. Extended
development will not increase shadow detail which would boost true film
speed but people push film all the time to salvage otherwise irretrievable
images by boosting highlight contrast and average film density.

--
darkroommike

----------
> > Hi,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and developer.
 
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