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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / February 2004

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How to set operating voltage for Macbeth TD-504A Desnsitometer

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Phil Glaser - 09 Feb 2004 00:28 GMT
Hi,

I have recently acquired a Macbeth TD-504A densitometer on ebay and I
have a bunch of questions.

First, it is currently set up for for operation at 220V, and I need to
get to work on US voltage. The manual Gives instructions for setting
the the voltage by using two switches on the power supply, but when I
opened the back cover and looked where the switches are supposed to
be, according to the instructions, they are not there. Instead, there
are a set of screws numbered 1 through 9 and two jumper cables that
connect screws 1 and 3 and 7 and 9. The instructions for setting the
operating voltage say to refer to "Addendum # 1", which I gather
explains what to do with these jumpers. Without the instructions, I am
at a loss as to know how to reconfigure those jumpers to make the unit
operate at 110 V?

Second, my solution to dealing with the power cable and UK-style plug
was to purchase a plug converter that converts a 3-pronged UK plug to
a 3-pronged US plug. (This is _not_ a power converter; it merely
converts the prongs of one plug to the prongs of the other). Based on
a previous post to the newsgroup (which I did not see before I bought
the the adapter: http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=XPZw9.228060%24
%25d2.76550%40sccrnsc01
)
I am now wondering whether this cable configuration will work at all:
do I  need to just remove the UK plug and re-wire it it with a USA
plug making the necessary modifications?

Third, I am not sure how to use this densitometer for measuring the
density of black and white negatives. It has has a four different
filter positions, one for "visual" and three additional postions for
blue, green, and red "Kodak Status A"  filters. Will setting it to the
"visual" give the correct "filter" for measuring black and white
negatives?

Fourth, the instructions discuss a step tablet with a "calibration"
step. It does not specify the density of this calibration step. So,
question four is: What is the density of the step at which this
densitometer should be calibrated.

Thanks!

--Phil
MFHult@nothydrologistnot.com - 09 Feb 2004 02:13 GMT
>Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>at a loss as to know how to reconfigure those jumpers to make the unit
>operate at 110 V?

I upgraded my TD-504 seven or eight years ago, so I can't look inside .... You
didn't say what terminals the 220 supply was connected to so it can't be
determined with the info you present. But an electrician with a voltmeter
could figger it out right quick. Or if you post a complete diagram or put a
picture at a web site, we can prolly figger it out remotely.

One quick and dirt solution would be to use a 220-> 110 step-down transformer.

Such a transformer can be purchased surplus relatively inexpensively, or made
from four identical transformers (secondary rating unimportant as long as it
is not high voltage).

>Second, my solution to dealing with the power cable and UK-style plug
>was to purchase a plug converter that converts a 3-pronged UK plug to
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>do I  need to just remove the UK plug and re-wire it it with a USA
>plug making the necessary modifications?

Forget the adapter. Get a three-prong replacement cord. They sell them at Home
Depot. Or cut it off an appliance you are going to throw away.

>Third, I am not sure how to use this densitometer for measuring the
>density of black and white negatives. It has has a four different
>filter positions, one for "visual" and three additional postions for
>blue, green, and red "Kodak Status A"  filters. Will setting it to the
>"visual" give the correct "filter" for measuring black and white
>negatives?

Status A is for color transparencies/E6. You won't be needing that for black
and white negative film.

"Visual" puts a filter in the light path that corrects the response of the
sensor to the visual spectrum which is what panchromatic (normal) film
records. That's the setting you will use for B&W.

>Fourth, the instructions discuss a step tablet with a "calibration"
>step. It does not specify the density of this calibration step. So,
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>--Phil

Buy a calibrated 21-step transmission wedge # T2115C from Stouffer
http://www.stouffer.net/TransPage.htm for about $15. You don't need
"certified" which is four times as expensive and unneeded if you always use
the same wedge.

IIRC, the TD-504 auto-zero's itself  when you turn it on. Don't have a
negative or wedge in when you turn the instrument on. There *may* be a zero
button (I don't recall one).

Calibrate the slope by putting the ~2.0 density of your wedge in the measuring
window and adjusting a screw in the back so that the reported density is the
same as the indicated density of the wedge. Dmax for this particular wedge is
about 3.0 You don't need to go that high.

(I *hope* I'm not remembering a different densitometer ... Some one will
correct me if I am.   At any rate, the instrument is 'zeroed', and then the
value reported by the densitometer is set to the value of the wedge.)

HTH ... Marc
Marc_F_Hult
Phil Glaser - 09 Feb 2004 13:09 GMT
MFHult@nothydrologistnot.com wrote in message

> Forget the adapter. Get a three-prong replacement cord. They sell them at Home
> Depot. Or cut it off an appliance you are going to throw away.

Ah, there's the rub. The power cable on this thing has 9 pins. It's a
rather involved affair. I think I can describe the situation
adequately without resorting to uploading an image.

Picture the female power plug on the back of the machine as
three rows of sockets. Based on a previous description
(http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=XPZw9.228060%24
%25d2.76550%40sccrnsc01
)
my plug is _sideways_ with respect to the half-moon and round
pin sockets (that post discussed the possibility of the
arrangement being upside down; mine is sideways). Having made that
adjustment, we have this arrangement of sockets, where 2, 7, and 9 are
the "half-moon" sockets:

               1  2  3
               4  5  6
               7  8  9

As I look on the machine's female plug, I see that female sockets
3,4,6
have no contacts in them. Looking on the back of the male connector
that plugs into the back, I see that:

a) there are two white jumper cables, one that connects pin 5 and 2
together and another that connects pins 4 and 5 togeher. Since 4 has
no contact, this second jumper would appear to be meaningless.

b) Socket 7 is connected to yellow/green, 1 to blue, and 9 to brown.
At the other end of the cable, on the UK power plug, yellow maps to
ground, and blue maps to the left prong (as you face thew all), and
brown to the right. This plug has a built-in 3A fuse between the blue
wire and the right power prong.

According to the afforementioneed post, the pins have these meanings
for the 120 V setup: "The AC hot is pins number 2 & 3, AC neutral is
pin number 9 and ground is number 7." For my unit this interpretation
does not hold becuase number three
is an empty contact. Again, in terms of that posting, my plug is
sideways but
I have numbered in accordance with the position of the half-moon
socket.
So I'm quite perplexed.

But we have not gotten to the power switches yet. In the back of the
unit,
where the power switches should be, I have this straight bank of 9
screw-posts, numbbered 1 through 9. There are two
jumpers cocnfigured as follows:

          1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9
          |     |           |     |
          |_____|           |_____|

In other words, 1 is jumpered to 3 and 7 is jumpered to 9.

So much for the electrical aspect.

As for the step tablet: I have a 21 step tablet from stouffers, but
it's not
calibrated. Is it necessary for it to be calibrated? The specs for it
say
that it begins (if memory serves) at 0.15 and increases in density
increments of
. . . I can't remember but I have it written down somewhere. Can't I
just
rely on what they say are its specifications rather than having it
officially calibrated?

Thanks for your help!!!

--Phil

> >Third, I am not sure how to use this densitometer for measuring the
> >density of black and white negatives. It has has a four different
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
> HTH ... Marc
> Marc_F_Hult
MFHult@nothydrologistnot.com - 09 Feb 2004 19:22 GMT
>MFHult@nothydrologistnot.com wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 56 lines]
>
>So much for the electrical aspect.

You might consider contacting the "Donald" who has the manual who responded
back in November.

Alternatively, make the reasonable assumption (or scout out the circuitry
to verify) that everything that matters is powered by the secondary/ies of
the power transformer that almost surely will have a pair of primary leads
that are connected in series for 230VAC supply and in parallel for 115VAC.

Work backward from there, bypassing unneeded jumpers, switches, and
multiconnector plugs -- ending up, if needed, with a  three-prong
replacement cord connected to the transformer through a fuse and a
single-pole single throw switch on the 115VAC hot.

>As for the step tablet: I have a 21 step tablet from stouffers, but
>it's not calibrated. Is it necessary for it to be calibrated? The specs
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>--Phil

You have the $5 uncalibrated version. The $15 calibrated version I
recommended is preferable. The ~$60(?) certified version is unnecessary.

The 21-step Stouffer wedges in common use have 21 steps of 0.15 (Dmax
~3.0).

Yes, the assumptions you suggest will get you close and may be entirely
adequate for your purposes -- especially if you don't share data/results
with others and don't lose or damage the uncalibrated wedge. (Many folks
live successfully in their own realms, unconnected quantitatively to others
;-)

I dunno what you intend to do, but 'calibration' of B&W film and paper can
involve contact printing with the step wedge, so its use goes beyond
calibrating the densitometer (for which you really only need one known-good
value somewhere around 2.0).

For the amount of effort you will/may be going through, I'd at least spring
for the additional $15 once I knew everything else was working as needed
and before I began using it for exposing film/paper.

Mis dos centavos... Marc
Marc_F_Hult
Nick Zentena - 11 Feb 2004 13:42 GMT
> But we have not gotten to the power switches yet. In the back of the
> unit,
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> In other words, 1 is jumpered to 3 and 7 is jumpered to 9.

 My message is related to this I think. The problem is this seems a cross
between the 115 and the 230 setup. For 115 you should have 6 not 7 connected.
OTOH for 230 you should have 8 not 9. But you said your wires aren't coloured.
The diagram is labelled TB402. Terminal block?

Nick
Nick Zentena - 09 Feb 2004 03:24 GMT
> Third, I am not sure how to use this densitometer for measuring the
> density of black and white negatives. It has has a four different
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> question four is: What is the density of the step at which this
> densitometer should be calibrated.

 I have one. At least I think it's the same model. I don't know to what
extent they drift over time but  I haven't gone to the trouble of
calibrating mine since getting it last fall. I did  compare it to the
densitomer function of my colour analyzer and the results are close enough
that I've put off getting a step tablet. I will when I remember but it seems
accurate enough for now.  

    If I understand how the calbration works you stick your reference under
the probe. You then fiddle with the knob on the back until the numbers
match. You should do this twice. Once for a low value and once for a higher
one. Hopefully that is all you need to get the thing within tolerances. I've
got the manual some place and could check.

   For use you turn it on. I'm not sure you really need to let it warm up
but I've seen references to older models needing a warm up period. You then
zero the channels. Basically lower the probe. Hit the zero button. Rotate
the dial to the next colour. Do all four and then go back and check them.
They should be reading zero. If not redo it.

    Mine is a 504AM. Whatever that means.
   
    Nick
MFHult@nothydrologistnot.com - 09 Feb 2004 05:03 GMT
>> Third, I am not sure how to use this densitometer for measuring the
>> density of black and white negatives. It has has a four different
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>    
>     Nick

Status M is for color negatives (assuming that's what the M suffix on your
model number refers to). For black and white, you don't need or use the three
colored Status M filters so there is no point in calibrating them. The filter
colors don't stay true indefinitely and with these ~30-year-old instruments,
the filters would require/warrant replacement if you did want to do
quantitative color work .  

Many/some Status-M models don't have a "visual" channel for panchromatic film
but instead have a filter for ortho (i.e, reproduction with reduced
sensitivity to red light) film. For most purposes with panchromatic black and
white film -- unless you are using negatives that are heavily stained like
pyro -- any of the channels will work more or less OK. For pyro, preferably
use a blue filter.

You can easily determine whether your instrument requires a significant warm
up period to stabilize, or *much* worse, that it drifts,  simply by watching
its behavior. I've been pleasantly surprised by the stability of the
densitometers that I've used.  

... Marc
Marc_F_Hult
Nick Zentena - 10 Feb 2004 19:41 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> at a loss as to know how to reconfigure those jumpers to make the unit
> operate at 110 V?

 Okay I found my manual. Don't you have the addendum? It's in the back of
my manual.

I'm assuming you're currently setup for 220V high. If so you should be
seeing the following from top to bottom

Wht connected to the top screw
unconnected
Blk
Unconnected
unconnected
unconnected
This should be connected but it doesn't give  a colour
Blk/wht
unconnected

Assuming you've got that. Then for 115 high it should be

Wht
unconnected
blk
unconnected
unconnected
connected but no colour
unconnected
unconnected
blk/wht

Caveat my manual might be different then you're unit. I may have misread
everything.

Nick
Phil Glaser - 11 Feb 2004 11:56 GMT
Nick Zentena <zentena@hophead.dyndns.org> wrote in message

>   Okay I found my manual. Don't you have the addendum? It's in the back of
> my manual.

Wow, thanks for looking that up! No, mine definitely does not have the
addendum.

But this is still confusing. I don't have anything that I would
describe as top-to-bottom. On the female blug into the rear of the
machine, I have the three rows of three for a total of 9 socket pins.
Inside the machine, I have a row of screws from 1 through 9, numbered
from left-to-right. Moreover, that row does not have colored wires
connected to it. Just two jumpers as I've described.

Are you describing a row of screws inside the machine or the plug on
the back?

--Phil

> I'm assuming you're currently setup for 220V high. If so you should be
> seeing the following from top to bottom
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Nick
Nick Zentena - 11 Feb 2004 13:10 GMT
> Are you describing a row of screws inside the machine or the plug on
> the back?

 I'm just  describing the diagram . It's two diagrams.  One for 115/220V
high and a second one for 115/220V low.

    Nick
 
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