You do realize Troy, that Hyperfocal distance is a mythical location?
The presumption is that before and behind the subject can be made
sharp really means "less unsharp" than closer or further elements of
the picture. A couple of years ago I revisited the issue when I did my
first 100% digital wedding and discovered the charts I had been using
for 10 years with my Mamiya and 35mm cameras didn't work with a 1.6
crop camera.

The widest hyperfocal distance will be obtained with the smallest
sensor size. The conundrum in that is the largest sensors will yield
the most detail. Some yeas back, manufacturer's began dropping
distance scales from lens barrels. I presume now they did this because
DSLRs were arriving and they had broader distances where less of the
picture was unsharp.

In practice, a number of other elements will impact the sharpness of a
landscape. The most significant is the aperture. Once you get below
about F/12 with a 1.6 crop, a whole new set of variables surface. Not
the least being light fall off towards the edges and the phenomena of
losing sharpness as the aperture gets smaller. This itself varies with
the size of the sensor too.

An average quality lens on your camera (including "L" zoom lenses) in
the range suitable for landscapes will have a sweet spot at about F/
8.0 and begin to lose sharpness (and therefore definition) at about F/
12. By the time you get to F/22 there will be noticeable light fall
off at the edges and considerable softness in the picture.

In 2005 I used the "sweet Spot" of a 28 - 70 "L" to take this shot
with a 20D. http://www.weddingsnportraits.com.au/POD/01-09-07. I
eventually enlarged the picture to 48 inch high and although you can't
see it in this clip, everything from the bride to the Casino is inside
the "Hyperfocal distance". I manually set the lens to a distance I
guessed to be the edge of the river. There is never any EXIF data in
these images, incidentally.

Although Russell's information is always reliable, there is nothing
like a bit of practical experimentation to figure out what works best
for you. The quality of your lens will dictate how well any of the
information you gather will actually relate to your circumstances.

Doug

Correct!  But you weren't exactly convincing.  (O;

As you go lower (or higher) and therefore further from the equator,
the sun becomes increasingly angled as it rises/sets.  Which means
that it is closer to the horizon for a much longer period, and
therefore casts usable light for a much longer period.  I recently
moved from lat 34 to about 27, and found it VERY noticable.  It's
almost like the lights go out suddenly at dusk, no long lingering
twilight... sigh.

If you take it to the extremes (at the poles) you can end up with 24
hour daylight/night...  No problems with rushing to catch the "magic
hour" there..

This may also explain in a small way why daylight saving is not as
popular as you get closer to the equator, as there isn't so much
variation winter/summer, nor is there much usable twilight.

Just call me Dr Karl...  (O;

Correct - see above!