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Photo Forum / General Photo Topics / Australian Photography / March 2007

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20D LOSES FOCUS! (300 f/4L IS Update)

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Annika1980 - 07 Mar 2007 04:52 GMT
My previous two tests of the 300 f/4L IS showed some peculiarities
that warranted further investigation.  Either the lens was very soft
or else it wasn't focusing properly.
So today I did a quickie test, this time with a brick wall at about a
45-degree angle from the camera.  This way I could see if perhaps it
was a focusing (or a backfocus) problem.  Once again, I used the
tripod and mirror lockup to go for the sharpest image.  The IS was
turned off since the lens was mounted on a tripod.

Here is the result:
http://www.pbase.com/bret/image/75308794/original

The red square is the center focal point used by the AF system.  That
is where proper focus should be attained.  However, as you can see,
this image has a backfocus problem.  The area to the left of the
square (the part of the wall that is farther away) is in focus while
the area to the right is not.  Further testing when I got home from
closer distances didn't show this problem.

I suspect that the IS is somehow throwing the image off.  As I
mentioned, I turned the IS off for this shot, but somehow I think the
IS system is the culprit here.  I mounted the lens to the tripod and
chose my focal point.  Then if I switch the IS on and try to re-focus
I can see the image shifting in the viewfinder.  Now when I turn it
off the original focal point may not be where it was.  So I would
guess the problem probably has something to do with how you turn the
IS off and on.  Just a guess.

Incidentally, my latest tests also included a few shots with the
400 f/5.6L which shows none of the backfocusing problems.
And even when the 300 f/4L IS focused properly it still wasn't as
sharp as the
400 f/5.6L.
So if you must have a 300mm lens, start saving for the 300 f/2.8L
which is highly acclaimed.  Otherwise, the 400 f/5.6L still rules it
in this price range.
munky - 07 Mar 2007 05:04 GMT
> I suspect that the IS is somehow throwing the image off.  As I
> mentioned, I turned the IS off for this shot, but somehow I think the
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> guess the problem probably has something to do with how you turn the
> IS off and on.  Just a guess.

I always turn off the cam before switching IS on or off on my 100-400L.

And obviously you need to ensure the cam is off before mounting/unmounting
the lens particularly if IS is on.

Tony
Smeegles - 07 Mar 2007 05:50 GMT
> My previous two tests of the 300 f/4L IS showed some peculiarities
> that warranted further investigation.  Either the lens was very soft
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> which is highly acclaimed.  Otherwise, the 400 f/5.6L still rules it
> in this price range.

It's relatively inexpensive to get the lens calibrated.
the 300 f/4 L is one of the sharper primes in the affordable canon range.
Having said that the 300 f2.8L is the BEST canon tele in the business.
Douglas - 07 Mar 2007 05:51 GMT
: My previous two tests of the 300 f/4L IS showed some peculiarities
: that warranted further investigation.  Either the lens was very soft
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
: tripod and mirror lockup to go for the sharpest image.  The IS was
: turned off since the lens was mounted on a tripod.

-----------------
Canon Australia's official stand on back focus (or any other focus) errors
in retail or consumer grade (as opposed to Professional) cameras is simple.

"If the camera's point of focus is inside the depth of field of a none "L"
series lens, the issue is not covered by warranty.

10D, 20D, 30D, 300D, 350D, 400D cameras are not Professional cameras and do
qualify for no-charge back focus error adjustments if the error is only
detectable when using a Professional grade (L series) lenses.

Basically you are playing around with Pro lenses on a retail or consumer
grade camera and the problem of manufacturing tolerance on cheap cameras
comes into play. Under friendly, non-aggressive presentation to Canon
Australia's service counter, they will usually fix the problem if it's with
a near new camera. Piss 'em off with an attitude and they have the right to
tell you to bugger off.

But Bret, you dropped this camera with a lens attached. Such unplanned and
not designed for, shocks can (and probably will) dislodge or at least move
the sensor adjuster. You can fix it yourself with a few tools from Tandy or
you can pay a technician to fix it. You might also try powering down the
lens/camera when you go from IS to non IS lenses.

Douglas
Annika1980 - 07 Mar 2007 14:21 GMT
> But Bret, you dropped this camera with a lens attached. Such unplanned and
> not designed for, shocks can (and probably will) dislodge or at least move
> the sensor adjuster. You can fix it yourself with a few tools from Tandy or
> you can pay a technician to fix it. You might also try powering down the
> lens/camera when you go from IS to non IS lenses.

Perhaps you missed the part about how the other lenses don't have this
problem and the 300 f/4L IS lens only exhibits the problem
sporadically.
So the problem is specific to that lens, not the camera.

I think Munky is on the right track.  I probably attached the lens
with the camera  and the IS switch on and that messed it up somehow.
I'll know by the end of the day since I plan to repeat the test one
more time with the proper precautions.
 
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