Reasons to NOT get one:
1) It is a Soviet camera, prone to the notorious quality control
problems (though this one tends to be better than most).
2) It is a 40+ year old camera, which means that a CLA is probably well
past due.
3) You need some technical skills to use it and to get the best results
out of it (for example, see my comments below on regularly checking the
rangefinder)

Reasons to get one:
1) It is one of the better built Soviet cameras
2) It is technically superior to the thread mount Leicas it supposedly
copies (combined rangefinder/viewer window, loading through removable
back, just to mention two things)
3) If it is working properly, it will probably continue to do so for the
rest of your life (long after modern auto-everything wonders are leaking
toxic fluids into landfills)
4) You can get many, cheap lenses for it (Soviet, Leica, modern
Cosina/Voigtländer and many others)
5) I especially like its looks
; )

The general rule for buying this (or any Soviet camera) is:
Either you can carefully check its condition yourself before buying
(watch out for pinholes in the shutter curtain), or the seller will give
a guarantee or a return privilage.
Buying it "blind" means you'll have a more than even chance of getting a
camera which needs expensive repairs.

If you do get it, carefully check the rangefider accuracy at infinity
AND at 1 meter. These are two separate (though interlinked) adjustments
which lose their accuracy fairly easily. Recalibrating the rangefider is
a DIY job, but takes patience and a bit of explaining to do.
I think that the vast majority of the complaints about "lousy Soviet
lenses" are caused by out of adjustment rangefinders.

If you're interested in advice for lenses, just ask and I'll be glad to
prattle on some more...

Good luck!

I don't have one but I know people who do and say they are one of the nicer
FSU cameras.  They have all the features of the Zorki 4 but with nicer
styling.  Basically looks and handles like a real Leica screw mount camera,
but with a bigger brighter combined VF/RF.

Zorki 4 are cheaper (~25$ with a Jupiter 8 lens) because over a million were
made.

If you can, get it with a sliver Jupiter 8 instead of an Industar.

I just bought a Zorki 4, so I may be of some help. I also have a Kiev
3A.
I've had the Zorki for a month now. It looks good on the bookcase.
Don't.
Unless you like things that just don't work quite right, that is.
The 3M differs only slightly from the Zorki 4, in that the Zorki 4 has
a self timer, which I think is the main difference between them.
Mine works ok, the Zorki, that is, the rangefinder seems accurate, if
the 5x7 prints I got from the resulting exposures are any indication.
They aren't quite what my Contax G1 delivers.  One problem I have with
the Zorki is the little mark that indicates the shutter speed setting
seems to fall in between the numbers, then I have to set it back to
1/30th, count the detents to 1/125th or 1/250th, ect. Seems easier to
adjust the aperture one stop if DOF is no concern.
There is no way to load film quickly.
The Zorki  has the better rangefinder. Up close the Kiev focuses
accurately enough, not at or near infinity though.
The Zorki has no problem there, it just focuses right past infinity if
you are not paying attention.
They are fun to use. One drawback quality wise is flair problems with
these old single or non coated lenses. Use a lens hood.
Film loading is a bit of a juggling act, but manageble.
Maybe I am too used to my more modern SLR's.
Here are a couple of links I've found in my travels on the internet
that may help you.

http://www.commiecameras.com/

http://www.btinternet.com/~stowupland/index.htm

http://www.keithberry.telinco.co.uk/Kiev-4.htm