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Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
>> If you can get metal tape (commonly used as shielding on
>> small appliances), you can cut to size and put on the
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Geoff.
I believe DX coding stickers can be ordered from places like Porters, and
Adorama. These can be placed on the canisters, so the cameras will read them
and go to the correct ISO setting......
Tony Polson - 17 Apr 2008 08:42 GMT
>I believe DX coding stickers can be ordered from places like Porters, and
>Adorama. These can be placed on the canisters, so the cameras will read them
>and go to the correct ISO setting......
Go to ...
http://porters.com/
... and search on "DX labels".
They cost $5.49 for a pack of 10, plus shipping.
> Thanks, I found one at the wikkipedia. The metal tape is a great idea,
> I can ask a friend in the appliance business for it.
Just a thought though - some (most?) of it has a thin clear
plastic insulation layer. Pretty elementary though to scrape
it off.
> The camera is a Pentax SP10. For a consumer camera (I'm assuming since
> you could not overide the ISO, it was aimed at consumers), it has a
> big bright viewfinder.
Suspected it was a Pentax - I assume the SP10 is a foreign
designator of the SF10, which as you say has no ISO
adjustment or exposure adjustment. In theory the SF10 has
"Automatic Contrast Control" method of exposure
compensation, which _in theory_ does away with the need for
exposure compensation. Usually does work ok, although
doesn't allow you to deliberately override ISO for push/pull
of films or non-DX films.
> Far better than the Fx5 (55,65,75) Nikons and the Canon EOS 300
> (Rebel?).
Agreed. One of Pentax's strengths has always been their
exposure system. I've got an MZ-60 which I normally keep
loaded with either Sensia or Velvia. The MZ-60 has the same
system as the SF10, and I've found it to be exceptionally
accurate for exposure. (Fortunately though the MZ-60 has ISO
override, which is handy when I use B&W). Other than the
odd shot in very low light (outside the meter's range), I
can't say it has ever got exposure fundamentally wrong. I
don't know why, but it appears they haven't put the same
smarts into the K10D, which frequently gets the exposure
very wrong (admittedly it is better than the Canon's I have
used).
> Geoff.
Peter Irwin - 17 Apr 2008 00:20 GMT
>> Thanks, I found one at the wikkipedia. The metal tape is a great idea,
>> I can ask a friend in the appliance business for it.
> Just a thought though - some (most?) of it has a thin clear
> plastic insulation layer. Pretty elementary though to scrape
> it off.
The silver squares on the DX code have to all be electrically
conntected together. It would be better to scrape off the whole
area to bare metal and use insulating tape for the black squares.
Peter.

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