I take you have put in brand new alkaline batteries.  Don't use NiCad,
NiMH or Lion batteries until you are sure the camera is working OK as
rechargeable batteries are far less reliable than any camera.  Battery
contacts should be bright and shiny; polish them with a new pencil
eraser if needed.  Any white powder or gunk in the battery compartment
should be cause for concern.

If the camera sat unused for a few years, not unlikely with an ebay
purchase, it is possible the oil and grease have gotten a bit -sticky-.

My experience is that running such a camera through a lot of cycles can
often make things work again.  I would take an old roll of film and run it
back and forth through the camera a half-dozen times, then try again.  If
the next few rolls go through fine with all the exposures properly made
then I would lay the matter to rest.

Sometimes, though, the camera has to be taken apart and cleaned and
re-lubed.
With old mechanical cameras there is the [somewhat controversial] 'Ed
Romney'
fix: a good rinse of the innards with a couple of cans of lighter fluid and
the application of a few drops of oil can often get an old camera running
again.
This is a fun approach: pick up a old gummed up classic, get it working, and
go out and be retro. I recommend 10W-30 engine oil for lubing cameras - it
doesn't gum up.  Don't use 3-in-1, WD-40, LPS-25, Singer Sewing Machine Oil,
'household oil', etc.: they all turn to goo in a few months.

With an electronic plastic-fantastic like a Rebel I am not sure a 'flush &
oil'
would be a good idea: chances are old goo would just get flushed into the
electrical contacts and/or there is some plastic in the camera that
dissolves
in lighter fluid.  Plastic cameras often run without lubricant and count on
the characteristics of the plastics used - this is not a high reliability
solution as all plastics will eventually 'gall' with constant rubbing and
the
whole thing will stop working for all eternity.

May I suggest that when buying a used camera to always buy one with a proven
reputation for reliability.  A camera that has been shown to work for 50
years
with minimal problems will probably go for another fifty years if a
'like-new'
sample is purchased: A Leica M3/M4 or Nikon F/F2 will outlast any of
us.  Good, slightly more modern, choices would be the Nikon F3, F4, F5, F6,
FM2 and Leica M5.  I am not familiar with the EOS Canons, the old F1 should
last forever but parts and service may be a problem.  Really nice Nikon F3's
often go for $250 or less.

Whatever you get, be sure to buy the best camera, in the best condition,
you can find & afford. Don't buy a beat-to-hell-and-back Nikon F3 for $40
and
expect it to work: it won't.  Ditto a 60's vintage Miranda, Praktica, Kowa,
etc.:
an awful lot of heavy metal cameras have been made that were less reliable
than any modern light weight plastic marvel.

On Aug 3, 3:02 pm, chriscook...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Chris,
 An intermittent problem like the shutter is a sign the camera had
been used hard or abused. Does the seller have a return policy? Since
I don't know what you paid for the camera but, the normal repair fee
is around $158.00 USA and can take between three to six weeks.
Depending on parts.
 Sorry you got took on this. But, that is the way of any auction
where you don't get to see the item before you buy.

 Good luck and don't give up on film, yet.

Draco

Getting even isn't good enough.

Doing better does.

Does this mean that the shutter *sometimes* remains

It would seem so.....

On Aug 3, 12:02?pm, chriscook...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Chris,

I am a camera repairman and own an authorized Canon repair facility.
I am familiar with the problem you have described with your Rebel XS.
The intermittent blank or partial frames on your film is caused by a
deteriorated shutter stopper pad inside the shutter mechanism.  This
can be repaired.  If interested, please contact me at Steven40@aol.com
or at my shop, Camera Clinic, 775-829-2244.

Steve