There are full instructions in most or all editions of
_The_Leica_Manual_.   Here's mine anyway:

Pop of the top lid of the Eldia to get at the two spools.
The spool with the small knob is the supply spool
and is at the right hand side next to the ratchet
for the spoket holes. (This may seem backwards, but
it is meant to work that way)  Cut the end of the film
so it will fit into the slot on the spool.  Wind on about five
feet or less of the film - emulsion side in - on the supply
spool.  The 5302 film is white and it may be a little
hard to tell which side is which, but it is wound
emulsion side in on the bulk rolls.  The spool should
be loaded clockwise (looking from the end with the
knob) because it feeds out counterclockwise when
loaded correctly.

You could fit up to 8 feet on the spool, but you
won't want that much because you will want to
load the film on a development reel later.  Attatch
the other end of the film to the take-up spool.
The take-up spool will wind the film emulsion
side out.  Put the reels in the Eldia and snap the
top cover back on.  This is fairly easy to do
with bright safelights, but you may need a bit
of practice before it becomes obvious.

The negative strip fits into grooves on the the hinged
cover glass.  You can adjust the framing of the
negative by holding the printer up to the safelight.
There is a red window on the back to make the light
extra safe.  Open the hinged cover glass between
exposures and turn the winding knob two clicks.
(If you are doing single frame 18x24 film-strips
with the optional mask you would only use one click.)
This works more precisely than you might think
while doing it. The frames are actually very evenly
spaced.

Print using an enlarger as light source if you have one,
a small light bulb will do if you don't.  Exposure time
will be about one stop longer than normal for enlarging paper.
You may want to bracket at first, but in time you will
get pretty good at guessing.

Develop the film in Dektol 1:1 for about 5 minutes.
You can play with developers and times to alter contrast.
It is very fine grained even in Dektol.  Fixing time can
be a little more than half that for normal negative films
with fresh fixer, but there is no harm in using your regular
fixing time.

A good B&W slide should look very contrasty and may
look pretty dark on average. You will learn what is good
by projecting them.  If you are used to looking at colour
slides you may tend to think that a good B&W slide looks
a bit over-printed and over-developed.  The proof is in the
projected image.

Peter.
--
pirwin@ktb.net