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Photo Forum / Film Photography / 35 mm / January 2007Using Slide copy equipment with the Nikon D200
I have the Nikon Bellows PB-6 and the Slide copying adaptor PS -6, plus the AR-10 which I believe will not work with this set up on the D200. What I would like to know is what other equipment do I need to make this equipment work on the D200 AND, what lens to use? I do have the Elite 5400 slide copier but I believe using my old, but never used, Bellows would be faster and more portable for me. Lee Park Ridge, NJ rarebirdyatverizondotnet >I have the Nikon Bellows PB-6 and the Slide copying adaptor PS -6, plus the > AR-10 which I believe will not work with this set up on the D200. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > never > used, Bellows would be faster and more portable for me. The D200 is not full-frame, which might cause a problem copying 35mm slides. At a 1:1 copy, you'll have to crop to 23.6 x 15.8mm, the size of the D200's sensor. SW >I have the Nikon Bellows PB-6 and the Slide copying adaptor PS -6 > what other equipment do I need to make this equipment work on the > D200 AND, what lens to use? Shouldn't need anything else ... I can't remember if the PB6 has a manual lever for stopping down the lens, if not then any old locking cable release should be able to do the trick. I am sure the Vr-10 locks, just use one of the two cables. The usual lens is a Micro-Nikkor. The standard 50mm f1.8/f2.0 lens should work reasonably well. Shoot at f8 for the best sharpness, depth of field isn't an issue. I tried this with a Canon and ended up with an image that looked just like what it was: a close-up picture of a color slide. A well scanned slide looks like a digital image from a camera, this didn't. A well copied slide, when you could still get duping film, looks like an original color slide. I tried some corrections in PhotoShop with not much luck. It is certainly possible to do, the trick is finding out how to do it well.  SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com >> I have the Nikon Bellows PB-6 and the Slide copying adaptor PS -6 >> what other equipment do I need to make this equipment work on the [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > It is certainly possible to do, the trick is finding out how to > do it well. Not to defend DSLRs, but the alternative to using slide duping film was to use normal film and make a double exposure, the first of a plain white surface underexposed by 2(?) stops, then the slide itself. Should also work on the D200... >>> I have the Nikon Bellows PB-6 and the Slide copying adaptor PS -6 >>> what other equipment do I need to make this equipment work on the [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Should also work on the D200... I will save this suggestion for future reference in case I get this set up working. Thanks. In fact, thanks to all of you for your help. Lee Park Ridge, NJ rarebirdyatverizondotnet >> I have the Nikon Bellows PB-6 and the Slide copying adaptor PS -6 >> what other equipment do I need to make this equipment work on the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > cable release should be able to do the trick. I am sure the Vr-10 > locks, just use one of the two cables. It has a manual lever. > The usual lens is a Micro-Nikkor. The standard 50mm f1.8/f2.0 lens > should work reasonably well. Shoot at f8 for the best sharpness, [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > could still get duping film, looks like an original color > slide. I will have to check that out again as I have forgotten. I do believe that the part of the slide I did manage to copy turned out OK. > I tried some corrections in PhotoShop with not much luck. > > It is certainly possible to do, the trick is finding out how to > do it well. Would RAW have worked? Yes, finding out how to do it well is the trick, as with everything in life. If I ever get the set up together and working I will worry about this part then. Has anyone successfully put this set up together? I first started on this project in August but got sidetracked by breaking my arm and shoulder. Now I am back and hoping for a solution. Back in August I took the whole set up to a camera store and no matter what lens was tried it did not work. The problem interested the sales personal at the store so I was there for several hours as several different persons tried their ideas. No matter what lens they tried a lot of the slide was missing in the view finder. Would this be what Summer Wind is referring to? BTW, the VR-10 has a different number of pins in the camera connection side. Lee Park Ridge, NJ rarebirdyatverizondotnet > Back in August I took the whole set up to a camera store and no matter > what [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > in > the view finder. Would this be what Summer Wind is referring to? Yes, that's what I was referring to. Most slide duplicators do 1:1 copies and can zoom in for cropping, but can't zoom out. Back in the pre-digital days, there would have been no reason to zoom out with a slide duplicator. The D200's sensor is 23.6 x 15.8mm and that's as much of the slide you'll see with a 1:1 duplicator unless it can zoom out. As has been noted, scanning is the best way to digitize slides. SW >> Back in August I took the whole set up to a camera store and no matter >> what [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > SW Slide scanners take such a long time to copy one slide. Using the bellows, etc. would have been so much easier and faster. You dashed my hopes. thanks anyway for your help. Lee Park Ridge, NJ rarebirdyatverizondotnet > Using the bellows, etc. would have been so much easier and faster. > You dashed my hopes. thanks anyway for your help. Don't dash your hopes too early. It certainly _can_ be done, it just may not be possible with some combinations of bellows, lenses and slide attachments. For instance: chuck the bellows and use a micro-Nikkor with a PK13 extension tube. Find some way of attaching the slide copy attachment to the camera and away you go - cardboard takes care of reducing stray light between the camera and the copy attachment. You might find a 2x4 and some 1/4-20 bolts will do the trick. I don't know the minimum spacing of the PB6 but it might be close enough that an 80 or 105mm lens will provide the needed reduction of 35mm full frame to 4/3 digital [~aps size]. The problem might then be that you can not move the slide attachment far enough away from the lens but an extension rail should take care of this. The PB6 has all sorts of fiddly accessories for putting together most any optical bench you can dream up. SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com > Re: copying 35mm full frame to 4/3 digital [~aps size]. It can be done. I don't have a PB-6 slide copying rig but a PB-5. A PB-5 bellows, 85mm lens & PB-5 slide holder will let you get down to 1/2 size reproductions of slides. A PB-6 extension bellows bridges the gap between the slide holder and the lens. Vanilla PB-5's sell for very little on ebay, unlike the PB-6. You don't need the extension bellows - a cardboard box/tube can be built to exclude stray light if needed. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com >Slide scanners take such a long time to copy one slide. Using the bellows, >etc. would have been so much easier and faster. > >You dashed my hopes. thanks anyway for your help. It should be relatively easy to do. *Any* bellows that can be made to mate with a Nikon camera that also has a slide duplicator attachment should be able to work (though you don't really even need the duplicator attachment). Note that adaptors are available for T and M42 (Pentax) mounts too, so it doesn't have to be a Nikon bellows. The "tricky" part is selecting the right lense. I've never tried it, so I'm really only able to guess. I would try a 50mm lense to start with. And basically *any* 50mm lense that will mount on the bellows would be enough to demonstrate the magnification range. (I'd guess that a 60mm or 75mm lense would be "perfect".) As for the "best" lense... get a good (El Nikkor or Rodenstock) enlarging lense! Enlarging lenses are perfect for this use, and are available in various focal lengths, which should make it easy to find one that produces the right magnification at a reasonable (minimal?) bellows extension. Even the slide copying adaptor for the bellows is unnecessary. Virtually any handy setup that allows quickly changing slides and guarantees the slide is positioned exactly the same each time will work. If you aren't the tinkering type, a table top slide viewing device could be used, and the camera + bellows mounted above it either on a sturdy tripod or on a copy stand. SignatureFloyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson> Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd@apaflo.com >> Slide scanners take such a long time to copy one slide. Using the bellows, >> etc. would have been so much easier and faster. [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > device could be used, and the camera + bellows mounted above it > either on a sturdy tripod or on a copy stand. Here I had given up on this project and tonight I am given back some hope. I am going to print out the last three suggestions and take them to the camera store. I know the gentlemen down there were really interested in solving this for me. Will go there when it warms up a bit. I will let you all know how this was solved if it is. Thanks again for your help. Lee Park Ridge, NJ rarebirdyatverizondotnet >> The "tricky" part is selecting the right lense. I've never >> tried it, so I'm really only able to guess. I would try a 50mm >> lense to start with. And basically *any* 50mm lense that will >> mount on the bellows would be enough to demonstrate the >> magnification range. (I'd guess that a 60mm or 75mm lense would >> be "perfect".) I dug up some 40 year old slides and gave it a try. You want a 75mm lense. >> As for the "best" lense... get a good (El Nikkor or Rodenstock) >> enlarging lense! Enlarging lenses are perfect for this use, and >> are available in various focal lengths, which should make it >> easy to find one that produces the right magnification at a >> reasonable (minimal?) bellows extension. A couple other things should be added. The lense doesn't even have to be a good example of an enlarging lense! The only 75mm lense I happen to have is an Omegar, which is one of the El Cheapo variety (which means that at f/4 it leaves a lot to be desired). But there is simply no problem with stopping it down to f/8 (where it is plenty sharp enough) and adjusting lights and shutter speed to match. But bellows on Nikon digital cameras are a problem. The front of the camera isn't shaped to mount a bellows. You need to put a short (10-15mm) extension tube between the camera and the bellows. ... >Here I had given up on this project and tonight I am given back some hope. I >am going to print out the last three suggestions and take them to the camera >store. I know the gentlemen down there were really interested in solving this >for me. Will go there when it warms up a bit. I will let you all know how >this was solved if it is. Thanks again for your help. I've seen others describe various successful setups for copying old slides or negatives. They are all about the same. SignatureFloyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson> Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd@apaflo.com >>> The "tricky" part is selecting the right lense. I've never >>> tried it, so I'm really only able to guess. I would try a 50mm [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > ... The D200 does mount on the PB6 bellows. >> Here I had given up on this project and tonight I am given back some hope. I >> am going to print out the last three suggestions and take them to the camera [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I've seen others describe various successful setups for copying > old slides or negatives. They are all about the same. Lee Park Ridge, NJ rarebirdyatverizondotnet About what a reducing slide duping setup looks like. Slide to lens flange: 10 1/2" Lens flange to film: 3 5/8" Lens: 85mm f2.0 Nikkor Handheld, so a bit jittery: http://www.nolindan.com/UsenetStuff/digidup_0001.jpg http://www.nolindan.com/UsenetStuff/digidup_0002.jpg http://www.nolindan.com/UsenetStuff/digidup_0003.jpg PS-5 bellows and duplicator. A PS-6 extension bellows covers the gap between the slide holder and the lens nicely. Most anything - cardboard box draped with black cloth - will work to exclude any stray light. SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com > >>> Slide scanners take such a long time to copy one slide. Using the [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > > rarebirdyatverizondotnet > Slide to lens flange: 10 1/2" > Lens flange to film: 3 5/8" > Lens: 85mm f2.0 Nikkor Using a 50mm Micro-Nikkor with/without a PK-13 extension tube also works, just mount the slide duper and the camera on the rail - don't use the bellows [unless your bellows can really squeeze down]. SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com |
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