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Photo Forum / Film Photography / 35 mm / November 20063D Stereo Lens Adapter
I'd like to experiment with 3D stereo images (cross-eye) and I know that there are devices available that will split a 35mm frame into two parts using a prism and two auxillary (left & right) lenses; I'm assuming that this device screws into the filter threads of a "normal" (50mm) lens? Can someone enlighten me about this, or give me some information links? I did a search on eBay and I found a couple of these, but they were designed for Contex mounts, meaning that they replaced the normal lens, I have a Nikon! Any thoughts on this? Thanks, Ray > I'd like to experiment with 3D stereo images (cross-eye) and I know that > there are devices available that will split a 35mm frame into two parts [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > search on eBay and I found a couple of these, but they were designed for > Contex mounts, meaning that they replaced the normal lens, I have a Nikon! There's a Chinese-made beam splitter available under the label "Stereo World" (see <http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/stereo/stereo.html>) but a quick search didn't turn up any current source for buying them. (I bought mine about fifteen years ago.) It screws into a 52mm filter thread and works reasonably well providing you keep the lens stopped down and take care to prevent the splitter from rotating away from the horizontal. It doesn't work with any lens wider than 50mm, and at 50mm it benefits from having its shiny internal surfaces covered with black felt or some similar material, otherwise the edges of the splitter show up at the top and bottom of the frame. At 50mm it works best at f/8; any wider and the images overlap, while smaller apertures cause a thick black bar to waste space in the middle of the frame. With a 105mm lens f/13 is best. Another solution is the Loreo 3D Lens in a Cap, which replaces the normal lens and is available in a Nikon fit. It has a focal length of 38mm, offers apertures of f/11 and f/22, and focuses to 1.5m, 3m or infinity. See <http://www.loreo.com/pages/products/loreo_3dcap.html> for details. Note that these solutions do not give cross-eye images so you'll have to swap the sides with an image editor. Note also that the Lens in a Cap comes in full-frame and digital versions.  SignatureMatthew Winn [If replying by mail remove the "r" from "urk"] > Note that these solutions do not give cross-eye images so you'll have > to swap the sides with an image editor. Note also that the Lens in a > Cap comes in full-frame and digital versions. Thanks Matthew, this is great information, it gives me a place to start! "Lunaray" <lunarayERASE@yahoo.com> wrote: > I'd like to experiment with 3D stereo images (cross-eye) and I > know that there are devices available that will split a 35mm [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Thanks, > Ray If you don't mind using film, you might consider one of the original 3D cameras, like the Kodak Realist 45 that I use (see http://www.JustUs.ca/3D/). They appear from time to time on eBay. There's one expiring today (http://cgi.ebay.com/Unused-David-White- Stereo-Realist-f3-5-w- case_W0QQitemZ300051086184QQihZ020QQcategoryZ15234QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewIte m). The photos on my website (JustUs mentioned above) were all taken with this camera. I scanned the film in a Nikon Coolscan IV. > I did a > search on eBay and I found a couple of these, but they were designed for > Contex mounts, meaning that they replaced the normal lens, I have a Nikon! I think you mean Contax or Contarex mounts. Back in the 40's and 50's, Zeiss made reasonably effective stereo adapters for several of their cameras. There are or were somewhat similar third-party devices for other cameras; but in general the results were very poor and I haven't seen them in many years. If you're talking about film photography, your best choice would be a purpose built stereo camera. Realist was the best known, but during the craze in the 50's many companies offered them, including Kodak, Revere, and Graflex. I've tried several of these with fine results over the years. From a camera dealer that has an idea of their value, you'll pay a good bit; but I occasionally see a working example for a few dollars at yard sales and thrift stores. http://www.stereoscopy.com/cameras/index.html Another choice, film OR digital, is to simply clamp two identical cameras side-by-side to take stereo pairs. I've done this with cameras as unsuitable as Rolleiflexes. I can easily see a couple of inexpensive digitals used this way; the biggest trick would be an arrangement to trip the shutters simultaneously (which is quite important). in fact, with the two camera trick manual settings and prime (non-zoom) lenses are almost necessary to be sure both are set exactly the same. I suppose it shows that I was once quite the stereo devotee. If you become really interested, make sure to, at least once, view a 35mm stereo pair through a good optical viewer - preferably on Kodachrome. Amazing! hi pentax used to make one for a 49mm thread and a 52mm thread. I bought mine in the early 80's then for about 40 to 60 uk pounds. Its basically 2 sets of mirrors arranged like periscopes but set horizontally and forms 2 images on the same slide. comes complete with a stereo viewer.. Signature> I'd like to experiment with 3D stereo images (cross-eye) and I know that > there are devices available that will split a 35mm frame into two parts [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Thanks, > Ray >I'd like to experiment with 3D stereo images (cross-eye) and I know that >there are devices available that will split a 35mm frame into two parts [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Any thoughts on this? Sorry, this is not a direct reply to your question. I just mention it for recors. There is a company in Germany which builds stereo camera, You give two identical manual cameras, they put the two cameras together and make a new camera wuth two lenses, Sorry, I just saw a person who had such camera but could not get detailes about the maker. M >Thanks, >Ray > >I'd like to experiment with 3D stereo images (cross-eye) and I know that > >there are devices available that will split a 35mm frame into two parts [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >search on eBay and I found a couple of these, but they were designed for > >Contex mounts, meaning that they replaced the normal lens, I have a Nikon! I use a Nikon with a variety of these 'beam splitters'. I use Kodachrome and view them slides with a viewer designed for the purpose. When I eventually go digital I expect to use the same beam splitter on a 35mm lens. The following beamsplitters use mirrors: Pentax (good), Zenit (poor) stereo-tach (moderate but glue degrades) Stitz (very fancy, adjustable mirror toe-in but suffers from multiple reflections) The following beamsplitters use prisms: Zeiss Jena (the best beam splitter there is in my view) Zeiss Jena 'small' splitter: uses a small interocular separation for photgraphing small thingsZeiss Ikon Steritar 812 (has a plug-in blank board) Zeiss Ikon Steritar other types Kodak retina (bayonet fitting only) I have all of the above!! The big advatage of the Zeiss Jena beam splitters is that there is no bleeding between the images at any aperture. They solved the problem that none of the others managed - smart lot thise East Germans. Prism splitters generally suffer less from this butt he mirror ones really need to be used at one special aperture, usually f/5.6. When buying, watch out for marks on mirrors and for fungus inside prisms. The Steritar 812 is designed for a 45mm lens. When you use it on a 50mm lens the 'stereo window' is rather close (40cm away) so it's good really for portrait work, not scenery. There are lots of Steritars and some have bayonettes and some have threads. Check on eBay, they all come up regularly, there's Zeiss jena one there at the moment. Expect to pay ?100+ Also expect to pay ?35 to have a thread converter made to match it to the Nikon 52mm threads. Then, if you use slides, you will need a viewer. In my view, Kodak Retina viewer is best, Zeiss Jena also very good. With the rest, if you have a nose of a reasonable size, you'll find it does not fit in the space provided! Someone else has mentioned the David White Stereo Realist camera. I also have one of these but I prefer the Nikon. hope this helps, Robert (a bit of a stereo fanatic) ... oh yes, one other comment. All of the beam splitters limit the aperture a bit. I use a 50mm f/1.8 lens and set the camera to overexpose by 1 stop (and I make sure I stop down to at least f/2.8). Someone else mentioned the Loreo stereo lens. I have one of these also. It works OK but the lens quality is poor and it has a fixed aperture. It does not suffer from the mionr trapezium distortion that the beam splitters do, however. Robert Check on eBay, they all come up regularly, there's Zeiss jena one there at the moment. Expect to pay £100+ Also expect to pay £35 to have a thread converter made to match it to the Nikon 52mm threads. Then, if you use slides, you will need a viewer. In my view, Kodak Retina viewer is best, Zeiss Jena also very good. With the rest, if you have a nose of a reasonable size, you'll find it does not fit in the space provided! Someone else has mentioned the David White Stereo Realist camera. I also have one of these but I prefer the Nikon. hope this helps, Robert (a bit of a stereo fanatic) ------------------------------------------------------------ Thanks Robert, this is good information, I'll take a look on ebay and see what I can find! |
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