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Photo Forum / Film Photography / 35 mm / November 2006

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Nikkormat EL (manual) shutter

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mr - 10 Nov 2006 10:39 GMT
I've just purchased a Nikkormat EL which seems to work more or less
fine in Auto mode (the meter responds, though I still haven't tested
its accuracy) but whose shutter behaves erratically when in manual
mode. Speeds 1/1000-1/125 seem to work (at least the shutter fires),
but any attempt to work with lower speeds (1/60, 1/30, etc.) leaves
the shutter open and the mirror raised. The shutter closes and the
mirror comes back down when I push the meter/action lever towards the
body of the camera (basically if I turn it off).

Any idea?

Thanks

Marco
Geoffrey S. Mendelson - 10 Nov 2006 13:21 GMT
> I've just purchased a Nikkormat EL which seems to work more or less
> fine in Auto mode (the meter responds, though I still haven't tested
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> mirror comes back down when I push the meter/action lever towards the
> body of the camera (basically if I turn it off).

Two ideas. One is there is a battery under the mirror. Make sure
it is replaced with the correct battery and is in good condition.

According to http://medfmt.8k.com/bronbattery.html you can replace it
with a L544 lithium battery.

The other is that there is a custom integrated circuit that drives the
shutter. It has two signs of failure. One is that the shutter stops
working and the other is that it drains a battery in about two days.

It sounds to me like it is a battery problem. I hope so because if not,
the camera is most likley a paperweight. The only source for a chip is
a camera that was made in relatively small numbers 30 years ago and
was mechanicaly damaged without damaging the chip.

If you can get it working, it's well worth the effort. It's a good camera.

Geoff.

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IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667  Fax ONLY: 972-2-648-1443 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/

mr - 10 Nov 2006 13:52 GMT
Geoffrey S. Mendelson ha scritto:

> Two ideas. One is there is a battery under the mirror. Make sure
> it is replaced with the correct battery and is in good condition.

The battery is brand-new...

> The other is that there is a custom integrated circuit that drives the
> shutter. It has two signs of failure. One is that the shutter stops
> working and the other is that it drains a battery in about two days.

Yes, but the shutter seems to work normally while in "auto" mode. Isn't
that a bit strange?

Thanks

m.
Scott Schuckert - 10 Nov 2006 15:33 GMT
> Yes, but the shutter seems to work normally while in "auto" mode. Isn't
> that a bit strange?

It's been WAY too long since I worked with an EL (a favorite camera)
but if I recall correctly:

In cameras like this shutter speed is determined by charging a
capacitor, and when the capacitor is full, the shutter closes.

The rate of charge is set in different ways, depending on the mode. In
auto, the current is set by the meter - more light, more juice, faster
shutter closure.

In manual, the current is set by a variable resistor under the shutter
speed dial - a "thin film resistor" I believe. This is a disk with a
variable coating of conductive material, and when you turn the dial a
slider contacts varying positions on the coating.

Over time, gunk collects between the contact and the disk; and/or the
conductive coating itself deteriorates. The upshot is, sometimes you
get the right speed - sometimes you get a slower speed - and sometimes
the circuit is open and the shutter never closes at all.

This isn't unique to the EL, or even to Nikon - I've seen it on Olympus
and Pentax cameras, too. This is the problem that has disabled many a
Nikon FTn meter prism.

Sometimes, you can ease the situation by cleaning the resistor disk,
but this is usually temporary. The real solution is to replace the
resistor. But there aren't any available - at best, you'll get one
salvaged from an older camera, and may soon be back in the same boat.
mr - 10 Nov 2006 16:47 GMT
Scott Schuckert ha scritto:

> Sometimes, you can ease the situation by cleaning the resistor disk,
> but this is usually temporary. The real solution is to replace the
> resistor. But there aren't any available - at best, you'll get one
> salvaged from an older camera, and may soon be back in the same boat.

I'll try to clean it, actually this was my guess after looking at the
camera schematics, but I didn't want to disassemble it without first
listening to somebody else's opinion. The camera will not be used
heavily, so if cleaning can help, it's fine, I just would like for it
to be more than a display piece.

Thanks

Marco
jimmomary@gmail.com - 11 Nov 2006 05:18 GMT
> I've just purchased a Nikkormat EL which seems to work more or less
> fine in Auto mode (the meter responds, though I still haven't tested
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Marco

look at the manual if you got one, if not go here -

http://66.49.230.119/pdf_files/nikkormat_el-1.pdf

see page 21

this is on this site if above link is not valid ...

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikkormatt_el/nikkormat_el.htm

note - slowest shutter speeds that can be chosen depend on asa set

asa 1600   1/15th second
asa   800   1/8th  second
asa   400    1/4th second
and etc so on down the line

If I recall, and it's been 20+ years for me, the EL defaults to "B" if
the wrong combo is selected and power off is the way to shut off the
"B" mode. This means if you select a shutter speed longer than the
camera can handle it forces the shutter into "B", i.e. always open,

This would appear to be longer than proper shutter speeds or non
operating shutter. Try setting the asa and see if there is ant
correlation. Best an old geezer like me can offer. Jim M.
mr - 11 Nov 2006 12:23 GMT
jimmomary@gmail.com ha scritto:

(CUT)

Thanks, the shutter doesn't seem to work as it should, but having the
manual is great anyway!

Marco
 
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